Monday, August 28, 2017

Honeymoon adventures part 1

After hosting what everyone agreed was the best wedding ever (more of which later), Audun and I had one week to enjoy Norway at its prime. One of the disadvantages of travelling as much as I have in the last couple of years is that I don't get to spend enough time in the beautiful Norwegian mountains.

Instead of settling on one area to visit, we decided to keep our options open and follow the weather. This resulted in a lot of driving, but we enjoyed good weather for most of our trip, which is never given in Norway. Here's where the weather took us!

We started off the week by staying put. The wedding took place in beautiful Norddal, tucked inside a long fjord arm in western Norway. We decided to tackle Heregga, the mountain in whose shadow we were married.

Hiking through goat-grazed grass near Herdalssetra. Photo: Audun

Heregga is a dramatic dinosaur spine that looks impossibly steep from the front. The normal route meanders around to the back of the mountain and takes a relatively mellow route to the summit. We had heard tell of a direct route up the side of the dinosaur spine, and we decided to go looking for it. Our plan was to take the steep route up, then go over the ridge and take the normal route back.

Audun poses next to Heregga. Our route took us up the steep chutes on the side you can see hear.
Most of the chutes up the side of the mountain seemed to end in steep, slabby rock, but using binoculars we found a strip of green that seemed to extend to the top of the spine. It was a mossy, direct highway to the top of Heregga. And it was VERY steep!

Halfway up Heregga, looking a long way down to the valley. Photo: Audun
The strip of green turned out to be the steepest moss field I've ever seen. It was strange to clamber up squishy moss on rocks, and we joked that we needed to invent a 'bog anchor' for this type of climbing.

Clamber on slabby rocks near to top of Heregga. Photo: Audun
I hoped that this route would take us to the top and we wouldn't have to turn, since downclimbing steep stuff if generally more difficult that climbing up.

Audun climbs a genuine Norwegian vertical bog.
Like magic, our highway of moss and lichen lead us up onto the ridge, and we popped up into flat, relatively safe terrain.

Audun poses near the summit of Heregga.
The 'normal' route back along the ridge was a lot longer and a lot less thrilling. I'd had enough thrills for one day. Strava here

The next day we made inland, driving over ever-spectacular Trollstigen, and I suggested we stop on top to shake out our legs and take in a mountain top.

We decided on the short and steep climb up to Bispen (The Bishop), an iconic cone shaped mountain that looms above Trollstigen. The ascent from the road to Bispevatnet (Bishop lake) was a well-worn trail, but soon we were hopping boulder and scrambling rocks, following sporadic red marks.
Hiking up from Trollstigen, Bispen looming above me. Photo: Audun

The hike was not for the faint of heart, with vertigo-inducing views of the valley below and lots of time in steep terrain with loose rocks. 

The view straight down to the valley on the way up Bispen.

We looked over at Kongen (The King), a nearby peak that is often scrambled in the same hike as Bispen. Somehow it looked even worse, the only obvious path up following an exposed ridge. We would have to save that challenge for another visit, since we had a dinner appointment to keep.

Audun near the top of Bispen, with Kongen to the right.

The scariest moment came on the way down, when the trail suddenly veered right. I was ahead of Audun and decided to stop after I rounded the corner and take a picture as he came towards. But he never came.

Suddenly I was filled with terror - what if he had fallen? But why hadn't I heard anything. I backtracked to the last point I had seen him and looked around, then started yelling: "AUDUN!" I didn't hear anything in return and was about to start hiking down towards the lake to look for his mangled body when all of a sudden I heard a faint reply. He was fine, of course. Turns out he had missed the sharp right turn and headed straight down to the lake, which looked to be even steeper then the route we had taken up! Strava here

Just before the right turn where we lost each other. Audun was headed straight down for the lake. Photo: Audun.

That evening we stayed at Kongsvold, a mountain hotel on Dovrefjell. In 2011, Audun was working in Oslo and I in Trondheim, and we met up at Kongsvold to ride mountain bikes (which we realized belatedly is illegal in the national park, so don't do that!). We were students and I had just spent all my savings on a mountain bike, so of course we were tenting out. It absolutely poured rain that evening, and we went inside the reception at Kongsvold hotel just to spend a few minutes in a less cramp locale then our tiny, two-person tent.

Kongvold serves really fancy food. I remember looking at the menu and resolving that someday we would come back and eat here. And what better time than our honeymoon?! We had 7 courses and it was delicious, but somehow I missed staying in a tent.

A taste of muskox meat at Kongsvold.

The next day we drove into the nearby town of Oppdal to take advantage of the sun and ride some trails. We started out the day on Svarthaugen, a nice and easy out and back trail that took us to a view point and provided some fun, not too challenging downhill riding.

Audun on the way up Svarthaugen.

Since I was focused on training for Jotunheimen Rundt this spring, I've barely touched my mountain bike. It takes some time to get back into the swing of things!

It had clearly rained a ton the night before, but the sun shone while we were out and who minds a little mud?! Strava here

Descending Svarthaugen. Note the puddle I am cleverly avoiding. Photo: Audun.

A rain shower passed over Oppdal as we were inside eating lunch, but then the sun came back and we decided to revisit Raudhovden, which was where Oppdal Enduro was held a couple years ago.

Casper on the summit of Raudhovden, with Gjevilvatnet lake and Trollheimen in the background.

We took an easy way up - almost everything was rideable. After a first technical section off the top, everything was flowy, fast riding downhill.

Wall-riding some slabs on the descent. Photo: Audun.
And mud of course. Gotta love me some mud. Strava here

Post-Raudhovden ride. Photo: Audun

Elated by the great mountain biking in Oppdal, we decided to try our luck on Sjurvarden, the mountain we were blown off of in 2014. The forecast was for east winds, which should be milder on the coast. We drove out to the coast and I scoured maps and satellite images, looking for a good campsite.

I noticed the tiny island of Kråkholmen, connected to the mainland by a bridge. Zooming in on the satellite images, it looked like there were a couple of houses and a whole lot of grass. We decided to drive out to Kråkholmen and look for a quiet corner to pitch our tent.

Kråkholmen turned out to have amazing tent sites. Someone had cut back a lot of the natural, bumpy heather and sowed and manicured smooth grass, perfect for pitching a tent. And then there were the views. Sjurvarden, the mountain we planned to ride, on one side, and the open sea on the other.

The Palace of Spaciousness and Luxury pitched on Kråkholmen. Photo: Audun

The sunset gave us a real show, and we spent a quiet evening watching the sky evolve, enjoying just being.

Sunset on Kråkholmen. Photo: Audun

To be continued...

- The Wild Bazilchuk

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Race report: Tromsø Skyrace Hamperokken

I heard the chop-chop of the helicopter ascending from the valley long before I saw it. When the day-glo yellow chopper finally crested the ridge above me, my heart skipped a beat. This was a medical helicopter - someone was about to get evacuated off the mountain I was headed up. In that instant, my priorities went from ‘racing’ to ‘getting off this mountain on my own two legs'.

The helicopter drops a paramedic on the slopes below Hamperokken.
Soon after, I reached the final checkpoint before the technical ridge to Hamperokken summit. I chatted briefly with the volunteers at the checkpoint, and ascertained that a woman (who I later learned was pro runner Hillary Allen) had fallen nearly 50 meters off the ridge I was about to scramble. She was conscious, they said, but they didn’t know anything more.

I briefly considered quitting. Was it worth risking life and limb to finish a silly race? But there is always risk in travelling through the mountains, and if you are careful and lucky you will be fine. I would climb the ridge slowly, making sure of every hand and foot placement.

The summit of Hamperokken looms as runners traverse the technical ridge. Photo by Elizaveta Ershova

So I continued up the ridge, trying to control the fear that rose in me as the helicopter evacuation took place below me. I listened to the paramedics stabilizing Hillary as I clambered up the same rocks she had fallen from. Just focus on placing your hands and feet, I reminded myself, one step at a time. It doesn’t have to be fast. 

Scrambling to the summit of Hamperokken.
Once the helicopter left, my nerves subsided quite a bit and I began to enjoy the scramble. It was relatively dry, and the puzzle of making my way up the steep rocks was actually pretty fun. The final scramble to the top was nearly vertical, and the race organizers had set up a rope you could use to make your way to the top. I skirted around it and popped up on the summit, next to two volunteers who were recording the arrival of the racers.

On the summit of Hamperokken, the ridge I traversed behind me.

I gave a whoop of joy. I had made it up Hamperokken, the highest point on the course. Only 28 kilometers in brutally steep terrain to go.

The dream of completing Tromsø Skyrace has been growing inside me for a long time. After completing the ‘mini’ skyrace (only 32K!) last year, I went home determined to go big this year. So I signed up in February, and spent the spring trying to combine bike training for Jotunheimen Rundt with enough running to keep my legs in shape for Tromsø Skyrace. Still, I went into the race feeling slightly undertrained. I hadn’t had nearly as many long runs as before the OCC last year for example, and only a couple of days training in steep, technical terrain.

At the start line with Vibeke.

Not only would I be racing a notorious difficult course with 4800 vertical meters over 55K, but I would racing the elite of the sport - Megan Kimmel, Nuria Picas, Hillary Allen and Maite Mayora among others. I had no business competing with any of these women; my main goal was to enjoy a beautiful day in the mountains.

I was elated when the early morning fog lifted and the skies cleared around before the race began. We ran pavement for the first 3K, across the bridge from the island where Tromsø is situated to the mainland. Then began the first climb of the day, up to Fjellheisen on a beautiful trail garnished with wood cranesbill.

The lush trail on the climb to Fjellheisen.
The early kilometers of the race felt familiar, since they are the same as the mini skyrace, but I had to remind myself that I was climbing three mountains, not one like last year. The terrain opened up to spectacular views and we climbed over several rolling hills before reaching the final long ascent to Tromsdalstind. My hamstrings were feeling a little tight, and a voice inside of me started to whisper ‘maybe this is not your day. Maybe you will fail’. Shut up, I told the voice, It’s a long race, it doesn’t matter how you feel now. I reached the summit about 10 minutes slower than last year, which I deemed prudent.

On the ascent of Tromsdalstind (the first time)
“Be careful on the steep snow on the next section!” warned a volunteer on the summit.

Into the unknown, I thought as I proceeded down the backside of Tromsdalstind, slipping and sliding on the steep ramp of snow. Over the next hour, I lost nearly all of the elevation I had gained since leaving Tromsø over the course of relatively few kilometers. The descent was so steep that the only way descend efficiently was to sit back like there was a chair behind you, and kick out your legs in front to move downhill. This technique work well, and I passed several more cautious runners.

Just above tree line, the route passed over a flat shelf in the terrain where we crossed several rivers, some of them rushing to over my knees. I joked with a woman nearby about ice baths being beneficial for recovery. There was certainly no way to keep your feet dry!

The final portion of the descent through the forest was just as steep as the upper part, but muddier and overgrown with vegetation. I was glad when the path flattened out for the final kilometers to Breivikeidet and I could actually run for the first time in hours.

Actual running through the forest towards Breivikeidet

I met my friend David at the aid station in Breivikeidet, and asked how Vibeke was doing. She had started the race despite knee issues, and was worried about making the cut-offs. “Great!” he answered, “She was only 5 minutes behind you on Tromsdalstind!” My goal of getting in and out of aid quickly was aided by the masses of mosquitos that swarmed as soon as I stopped. David helped refilled my bottles as I munched on cookies and stuffed some candy into my running vest before taking off up the hill.

I felt strong on the first part of the climb, so I whipped out my poles and climbed hard. I duelled for a bit with a little black haired woman who smelled so strongly of laundry detergent that I wondered how bad I smelled. It reminded me of hiking the JMT. The longer we were backpacking for, the more the day hikers smelled like soap!

Soon I was clambering the ridge to Hamperokken, and my race was turned upside down as I watched Hillary Allen being evacuated.

My knees started to hurt a little on the steep descent off of Hamperokken, and I hoped that it wouldn’t get any worse. I hit the steep ramp of snow that Kilian had described during the race briefing the day before. “You can go really fast here if you want,” he had said, “But be careful of the rocks at the bottom.” I opted for the safer descent next to the snow, although the loose rocks and sand there were nearly as slippery as the snow!

The course passed on snow past a turquoise alpine lake, and I passed one more runner before finding myself in an odd void. For the first time all day, I was completely alone. The sun was out, and I sang softly to myself as I jumped between boulders and then charged through the forest. I met David again part way down, who told me I was in 13th place, and that Vibeke had made it up Hamperokken as well. I was elated; maybe Vibeke was going to pull this off as well!

The alpine lake below Hamperokken
I ran the rest of the descent to Breivikeidet at fairly suicidal pace, startling several hikers as I bounded downhill hill on the soft, boggy ground. The course does a loop over Hamperokken, before doubling back through the Breivikeidet aid station and reversing the descent up to Tromsdalstind. I could see Tromsdalstind looming ahead as I stopped at the aid station for more candy and water. I’m coming for you! I thought.

Tromsdalstind beckons for the second time in one day.

I did my best to run the flats through the forest before I hit the final big climb. The climb up Tromsdalstind was so steep that I felt I was barely moving at all. Still, I resolved not to stop, to just keep moving forward. As I slogged through the forest, a guy in race kit came bounding down towards me. I looked at him, confused.

“I give up,” he said, “This is enough for me!"

“You are so close!” I exclaimed, “How can you quit? Keep going!” He wouldn’t, though. I couldn’t imagine quitting now, 2 1/2 mountains into the race. I would see this through.

After reaching treeline, I waded through the same rivers and continued uphill, leaning into my hiking poles and sucking on small squares of chocolate. Despite what I felt was a glacial pace, I passed two men on the ascent. They both stopped for breaks, which I was resolved not to do.

On the final few hundred meters of the climb, I started to see the outline of what must be another woman. I didn’t have any strength to go faster than the crawl I was ascending at, but she was going even slower, stopping every 10 steps or so. It was a race at a snail’s pace. I caught her at the top of Tromsdalstind, and we started chatting. Her name was Liza, and she knew Hillary Allen, the woman who had been choppered off Hamperokken. After the accident, she said, her race was basically over and she struggled with motivation to continue.

We continued to chat as we descended Tromsdalstind at a leisurely pace. I was resolved not to go at break-neck speed and sprain my ankle like last year. Having someone to talk to began to lift my fatigue, and I felt better and better for the company.

In the valley below Tromsdalstind, we met David and I got another update on Vibeke. She had come through Breivikeidet the second time 3 minutes behind the cut off, and had her bib removed. In anger, she had decided to continue and finish without a bib. David was headed up to meet her on Tromsdalstind. Wow, I thought, I wouldn’t have the tenacity to finish the race if I had been cut!

Liza and I continued up the tractor road to the final checkpoint at Fjellheisen, and it was then I realized that the only correct thing would be for us to finish together. We had bolstered one another, making the final kilometers go so much easier. We cruised the final descent on trails before hitting the pavement and bridge to the finish. I felt strong now, and was resolved to run hard to the finish. We pressed through the final K in 4:33, before crossing the finish stride for stride, tied for 11th place in 11 hours 22 minutes. I knew I had made a good friend.

So stoked to have made it! At the finish line with Liza.
Vibeke finished several hours later, still angry at having been cut off but elated to finish the route on her own terms.

Forty-five women started the race, and only twenty-one finished. Tromsø Skyrace is a race against the course, and above all against yourself. In that respect, I feel like a winner.

Check out a recap with beautiful pictures from the front end of the race here.

- The Wild Bazilchuk